Dear Hindy,

My wife and I live with Ronald our 10 year old Lab mix, and recently we’ve noticed a few new behaviours. I did some research and they seem to indicate symptoms of dog dementia. I had no idea there was even such a thing and we’re not sure what to do.

Thank you,

Steve and Amanda

Dear Steve and Amanda,

Thanks so much for writing in, and I understand how confusing this must all seem. Don’t worry I will do my best to help you figure it out.

The thing about dementia in a dog is, because many of the symptoms are similar to other health issues, pretty much the only way to diagnose it is by a process of elimination.

I recommend you call your vet right now to make an appointment, then carry on with this post so we can take a look at some of the signs of dementia in dogs.

This checklist is sorted by category so you can easily tick off the behaviours you’re noticing and print it out to take to your appointment. One more very helpful piece of advice – take a video when possible, it will help your vet with a diagnosis!

Housetraining 

• Goes outside and wanders, then pees and poops in the house
• Doesn’t let you know she has to go out like she used to
• Seems to have forgotten her training

Anxiety

• Seems fearful and/or anxious
• Barks for no apparent reason
• Aggressive but never was before
• Trembles for no apparent reason
• Afraid of people she knows

Sleep and awake patterns

• Sleeps more during the day, less at night
• Wanders or cries at night

Disorientation

• Performs the same behaviours over and over
• Has trouble eating or drinking
• Doesn’t respond to her name or cues
• Wanders aimlessly/paces
• Seems lost or confused in familiar surroundings like the house or yard
• Gets stuck in corners or other tight spaces and just stands there
• Stares into space or at walls
• Doesn’t recognize family or friends
• Gets stuck under or behind furniture/wrong side of door
• Walks in circles, usually in one direction 

Interaction with family and others in your household

• Doesn’t look for attention like he used to
• Walks away when petted
• Withdrawn from family

Activity level

• Less interested in his toys
• Plays very little or not at all

I hope this helps, and please keep me posted on what’s going on.

Take care,

Hindy

Dear Hindy,

Can dogs get dementia? I’m asking because my old dog Barney (he’s 14) has been behaving really strangely the past few months. I feel terrible because I figured it was him just getting older, but my friend told me it’s probably dementia. Her old dog had it and she recognised some of the signs of dog dementia. I can’t believe it I’m freaking out and don’t know what to do. Please help!!

Thank you,

Regina

Dear Regina,

I’m so sorry to hear about what’s going on with Barney, but please try not to panic. I know how tough that is but I hope you can relax for a moment and take a breath…at least long enough for you to read my reply!  

In answer to your question can dogs get dementia, yes they most certainly can but…does it mean your dog definitely has it? No it certainly does not!

There is no one test to diagnose dementia in a dog, and many of the symptoms can be due to other health issues. For example –

If your dog –

• is pacing and can’t settle he could be in discomfort or pain
• has been having accidents in the house, he may be drinking more due to new medication
• gets stuck behind a door or under a table he may be losing his vision

See where I’m going with this?

Here’s my best advice

Make an appointment to see your vet sooner rather than later. Once you’ve done that, think back to some of the behaviours you’ve been seeing you assumed were part of the normal aging process and write them down. If possible, take a video because that can really help your vet with a diagnosis.

If it’s been awhile since your dog has had a check-up, please make sure blood and urine tests are also done. Once the test results are back you will have a clearer picture of what’s going on and you can then take the next step.

If your dog is very anxious and you want to try something right now, an Adaptil plug in, spray or collar might help and look into Rescue Remedy as well. These are just a couple of products you can find easily.

Good luck and please let me know how your appointment goes.

Hindy

Dear Hindy,

I desperately need advice on how to help my dog lose weight. I was in the park recently, and a very rude woman told me my dog’s back looked like a table, than chastised me for allowing him to get to that state!! When I told a couple of people I know about that horrible encounter, I expected sympathy but instead they all agreed with her and had been afraid to tell me! I have since learned it can be very bad for their health, so please help me help Frank!!

Thank you,

Sharon

Dear Sharon,

First I want to thank you for reaching out, and then I want to say don’t beat yourself up! What’s important is that you’re doing something about it starting right now. I don’t know how much or how often Frank eats, or how much exercise he gets so I’m going to write a few points to get you started.

I recommend you have your dog checked out by the vet if it’s been awhile. You want to know how his overall health is, current weight and the ideal. Most practices have a free weight loss clinic so ask if they offer that service. 

I am not a fan of leaving food out all day for dogs to graze on, so I would make a schedule to feed him twice a day. In terms of the type of food he’s eating that’s a book in itself, but I would recommend you find a food with limited ingredients you can actually identify! There are lots of FB groups about nutrition and homemade diets you can check out. 

Treats are fine but within moderation and if they’re good for him. How about a piece of raw carrot or apple (without the seeds)? There are tons of super simple homemade dog treat recipes on Pinterest you could try.

I don’t know Frank’s age or his level of mobility, but typically dogs need about 3 walks a day, and they should be at least 20-30 minutes, longer depending on the type of dog and his needs.  You may only be able to walk him 5 or 10 minutes at a time, and that’s okay you’ll get there. 

Dog activity monitors

There are a couple of dog activity monitors you may want to check out, in case you think they will be helpful. I don’t have any personal experience with them but it seems like they would be worth looking into. One is the PitPat  and the other is called FitBark2 

Hope this helps!!

Hindy

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I think the dog stroller is one of the all time greatest inventions, so I’m going to help you choose the best pet stroller for your pup.

How it helped my dogs

It made a massive difference in the lives of two of my dogs – Red, my heart dog who sadly gained her wings last year, and Jack. Let’s talk about Red quickly. Although she was small and weighed less than 10lbs, she would get very heavy after just a few minutes of carrying her. She was a blind old dog when we adopted her, and although she was perfectly able to walk, she was quite slow. That wasn’t an issue when taking her for walks in the park or quieter areas, but if we were off on a day trip in a crowded area, or just wanted to have a wander, it was a lot easier and safer to put her in her doggie stroller. If you have an old dog, I highly recommend you buy one. 

About 2 1/2 years ago our other dog Jack became paralysed quite suddenly. He was fine in the morning and by mid afternoon his back legs stopped working. Luckily surgery was an option, but his recovery was long and for quite some time he was only allowed 5 minute walks. We needed to make sure he wouldn’t get bored or start feeling depressed, so with permission from his neurologist I took Jack out every day in the stroller, making sure we stopped in to see some of his favourite humans along the way.

Even after Jack was fully recovered, there were still times he used it when we were out as a family with Red. After running on a hot day he would often take a break by lying underneath it in the shade it created. He has also been known to hitch a ride part of the way home until he got his second wind!

Are you ready to buy a dog stroller?

Whether this is the first time you’ve ever heard of such a thing, or you’ve been looking for ages and are totally overwhelmed by the number of styles and options, I’m going to help you figure out how to choose the best pet stroller for your dog.

Here are my tips in no particular order

Budget

It’s hard to decide how much you’re willing to spend on something, if you have no idea how much that something costs!! The good news is strollers for dogs are available in a wide range of prices, so you should find a price point you’re comfortable with. If you’re willing to buy second hand you can probably find a great deal in a local Facebook buy and sell group for example. 

Weight the pet stroller can accommodate

You will find weight guidelines on the tag, product description or booklet, and it’s a good idea to follow them so you know the frame will offer enough support. If your dog is at the recommended weight or even just below it, I would play it safe and buy a bigger stroller. 

Size dog it can accommodate

Weight and size are 2 different things. You may find a great stroller that suits your dog’s weight, but not all dogs with the same weight will be the same size. To find out your dog’s size measure him from nose to tail then width, and compare them to the interior dimensions of the stroller. If the numbers too closely match I would buy the next size up, so I can be sure there is enough room for a comfy blanket and for my dog to stretch out.

How does it look?

There’s nothing wrong with having a nice looking stroller if that’s important to you, after all you’re going to be using it a lot! I was so excited when I decided to buy my first one, I gave absolutely no thought to how I would feel pushing a dog in a bright red stroller. Keep in mind I live in an area where you hardly ever see one! My husband was happy we stuck out so much because he felt it would be a conversation starter. He wanted people with older dogs to realise it was a great way to get their pups out of the house, rather than leaving them home alone because of mobility issues. I guess we were performing a public service! 

Quality

A good quality stroller doesn’t have to cost a fortune, but it is absolutely an important feature. The last thing you want is for it to break down miles from home.

Handle height and placement

Is the handle height comfortable where it is or does it need to be adjustable? Some pet strollers have the option, others do not. Placement refers to how far the handle sticks out, which can affect whether or not you kick the tires as you walk, especially if you’re going at a quicker pace. 

Foldable

You definitely want a stroller you can fold to keep it out of the way when not in use, and to easily transport in the car or even the train. Most need two hands to fold it (mine does), some just one.   

Latch to keep pet stroller closed

Trust me when I tell you it’s a much needed feature. On my stroller there was (yes, past tense!) a latch affixed to one part of the frame, and once it’s folded you click it onto the other part and it keeps the stroller closed. Unfortunately ours was lost (I don’t want to blame my husband but it wasn’t me!!), and believe me it not the same without it. I should really try and find a replacement.

Extendable canopy

Having a canopy that extends is a very important feature. On a beautiful day you can keep it open, but if the sun becomes too hot for your dog, it starts to rain or there are too many bugs about, it’s good to have the option to close it. 

Viewing port

I love this feature and it’s on the canopy of my pet stroller. Made of mesh with a velcro flap, it not only provides an extra source of ventilation when the canopy is closed, it also allows me to easily check on my dog without stopping and walking around to the front of the stroller.

How easy is it to push?

Pushing an 8lb dog on a paved path is one thing, pushing an 85lb dog over rough terrain is quite another. If it’s too hard to use no one will benefit. The weight of the stroller and type of tires are some determining factors. 

Multiple uses

Sometimes a stroller is just a stroller, but other times it can also be a bike trailer, car seat or even a pet carrier. Yep, there are some that come in multiple configurations so one product can serve more than one purpose.

Amount and quality of mesh in the fabric

More mesh means more breathability, and a better view for your dog if he’s too small to see out the top or if he’s lying down. Pay attention to the sturdiness of the mesh, too thin and he can claw it and tear it.

Enclosing the stroller

I would say most strollers have the option of completely enclosing it, and I like that for a couple of reasons. One being added protection from the weather, the other for safety to prevent the dog from jumping or trying to jump out. When the canopy is open it attaches to the stroller with a zipper or non-zip option.  

How many points of entry

Some strollers have one way to put your dog in and that’s through the top, others also have a rear zippered entry. This is particularly handy if you have a bigger dog, or you are unable to lift him. If it’s low enough to the ground your senior dog may be able to walk right in, but if he can’t a small step will help.

Another advantage to rear entry is you can unzip it slightly if you have to reach in and grab something or even fix the blanket on your dog if it’s chilly out.

Safety tether

A tether is a wonderful safety feature and one I always used. It is a leash that comes attached to the stroller with a clip at the end that you can attach to your dog’s collar or harness.

Tires and wheels

Not all tires are suitable for all terrains, plastic being perfectly fine for smooth pavement, while air filled are better for rougher and uneven surfaces.  Mine are plastic but because I only use it on smooth surfaces, they are perfect for my needs. 

Fixed wheels or swivel? My stroller has swivel wheels which work well on paved surfaces such as sidewalks and stores. They are also good for turning corners and added maneuverability. Fixed wheels are best for jogging and off road. Some strollers have wheels you can let swivel or fix into place.  

Rear locking wheels

An excellent safety feature to stop a stroller from rolling, you simply engage and disengage with your foot. Perfect for public transport, stopping for a chat, parking the stroller while walking the dog, or even while loading and unloading your pet.

Storage basket

For me a storage basket underneath the stroller is a must have, so check the size before you buy. On day trips we do take a knapsack, but having the basket means quicker access for things like – an extra sweater, human and canine water and snacks, sun hat, sun tan lotion….

Parent tray

Most strollers have it, although configurations may differ. It’s super convenient for items you want to keep close to hand such as water bottles, keys, phone, treats…  If you like to keep a water bottle within easy reach, check the depth of the holder. Mine is perfect for a small bottle of about 8oz (250ml) or so, anything bigger and it will fall out if we walk on rougher terrain. It’s not a huge deal although slightly inconvenient. I put it in the canopy when it’s closed but when it’s open I have to put it in the storage basket.  

Rain cover

Some pet strollers come with it, most don’t, mine didn’t. They can be purchased separately because they are handy to have should you get caught in a rainstorm. Even if the stroller fabric is water resistant, if the rain is heavy enough it may get in.

How to choose the best pet stroller for your dog – conclusion

Whether you have an old dog with mobility issues, a dog recovering from surgery or illness, or your dog just can’t walk that far, pet strollers for dogs are definitely worth looking into.

Is this the first you’re hearing about a stroller for dogs? If yes, does it sound like something that could benefit your dog? Let me know what you think in the comments section below.

Dear Hindy,

I’ve been doing some leash shopping recently, and I can’t figure out what the best type of dog leash is. Can you tell me please! Thank you, Lydia

Dear Lydia,

I know what you mean, there are lots of styles, materials, designs and lengths to choose from, it’s tough to decide!! You didn’t mention how old your dog is or whether or not he or she walks nicely on a leash, so I’ll cover as many bases as I can.

A standard leash comes in lengths of 4’, 5’ or 6’ and the most common materials are nylon and leather. The other type is called an extendable or flexi leash. The handle comes in a variety of sizes, and the wire that extends out of the handle is available in different widths and lengths, the one you choose will depend on the size (and strength) of your dog.

My personal preference is a 5’ nylon leash and I’ll explain why. I find the 4’ doesn’t allow my dog enough freedom to sniff (although I do use it at times), and the 6’ is so long I have to wrap it around my hand too many times for it to be comfortable. I buy nylon because I don’t buy leather! As a bonus nylon comes in a ton of colors and patterns if you want to be fashionable!!

I don’t believe flexi leashes are safe, even though the majority of people I see use them. They allow their dogs to walk so far ahead of them, one step over and they’re in the street in front of a car. You don’t have the control of a standard leash should you need to get a firm hold of your dog or stop him from entering a dangerous situation, like crossing into the road. It’s a lot harder and certainly more painful to grab onto the wire of a flexi leash than a standard one.

Do I believe there is a place for a flexi leash? Absolutely. I use them for my old dogs who have mobility or vision issues and just wander around on the grass, or take short walks along the sidewalk. Having said that, I never use one if I’m on busy streets with them.  

Good luck.

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**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.**  

Dear Hindy,

My husband and I just adopted our first dog, but we’re confused about how often to feed Stella. I’ve been asking people and some tell me once a day, some say twice, and I’ve even been told to leave food in a big bowl so Stella can eat when she wants. What’s the right answer! Thank you, Zoe

Dear Zoe,

First let me congratulate you on rescuing and saving Stella’s life!!

 There are so many reasons why I don’t like free feeding, (leaving food out all day) and they include –

• It makes house training hard
• I like the idea of a routine and consistency when it comes to meal and walk times
• If a dog is prone to resource guarding, having food constantly out that he has to guard can be very stressful
• Missed opportunity for training such as teaching him to “come” and “wait” or “stay”
• Bugs!

To me once a day means loading up the bowl with your dog’s daily requirement, then expecting her to sit and eat the whole thing in one go. What if she doesn’t? Will she miss out on proper nutrition? If you leave it sitting there you’re free feeding!!

My preference? Twice a day unless a vet recommends otherwise. I like that my dog doesn’t have to eat so much in one sitting, and it gives him something to look forward to. I also appreciate the extra opportunity to get in some training. Twice a day works for us!

Good luck.  

**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.**   

Dear Hindy,

Judy is our 7 year old rescue mutt, who we adopted 2 years ago from an “acquaintance” who wasn’t treating her very nicely. Lately I’ve noticed she has really bad breath. That’s normal for dogs, right! Thank you, Abigail

Dear Abigail,

First I must say how wonderful you are for saving this girl from a bad situation, and giving her a loving home. Well done!

There seems to be a belief, maybe even an expectation that dogs have bad breath, and it’s normal. In fact bad breath is a sign of dental disease, but we can’t know the extent of it without a thorough check up by a vet. Just like in humans, tartar builds up on our dog’s teeth. If left untreated it can lead to inflammation of the gums, receding gums, abscesses and tooth loss. Bacteria can get into the blood stream and cause all kinds of organ damage. These dogs are often in pain, but because they hide it so well we may not know until the problem is quite advanced.

Don’t be worried or scared because the solution is easy.

The first thing I recommend you do is make an appointment to see your vet, and he can tell you what’s going on and help you devise a treatment plan.

Try and brush Judy’s teeth every day or as many times a week as she will let you. Even once a week is better than not at all. There are many styles of toothbrush and flavors of toothpaste to make the job easier. If she refuses to let you near her with a brush, she may be more willing to accept your finger wrapped in a cotton pad.

Water additives, chew toys, dental chews and even a product like Plaque Off sprinkled on her food can all make a difference.

It’s okay if you aren’t able to incorporate all these options, do what you can and it will definitely help.

Good luck.

**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.**   

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Dear Hindy,

My 50lb dog Jasper is a bit naughty in the car. He starts off sitting nicely in the back seat, but sometimes he tries to get in the front with us. I’m worried about him causing an accident, but I’m not sure the best way to keep him safe. Thank you, Gladys

Dear Gladys,

I’m so glad you brought this subject up because it’s an important one. I’ve been guilty of driving with a dog in my lap, there I said it!! Okay the dog weighed about 5lbs and stayed draped over my leg the entire time, but it still wasn’t a smart thing to do. What if I stopped suddenly and she fell? What if she ended up under the brake pedal? You’re dealing with a much bigger dog!!

A dog can so easily distract a driver and as we all know, it takes a split second for things to go terribly wrong.

I don’t know what kind of car you have, but if you have an SUV, station wagon or something similar you have a few options. A metal barrier will keep Jasper secured in the back so he can’t jump around. A crate is another option, as it will keep him safely contained. A third possibility is a seat belt, just like we wear. It has a clip at one end to attach to his collar or harness, the other end fits into the seat belt buckle in your car.

If you have a sedan type car, a seat belt is your best bet, and there are vest harnesses that come with a seat belt tether attached. Hope this helps!

Good luck.

**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.** 

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Dear Hindy,

Nothing makes Josie happier than her walks, but she’s so super excited she jumps around like a lunatic and it’s impossible to put her leash on. It’s stressful and irritating. Any advice? Thank you, Robert

Dear Robert,

My dog Jack was the same way when we first adopted him. A lot has to do with how often a dog gets walked. If they only get one walk a day, if that, how can we expect anything less? If you feel this is the case, I hope you will find a way to take her out at least twice a day, but 3 times is better.

Please don’t yell or punish her for her over exuberance!!

Okay, let’s look at how we can start the walk off on a much calmer note.

The simple rule is – the leash does not go on until Josie is sitting calmly, and every person who walks her must follow this rule. If for some reason it’s too hard for her to sit, have her stand/stay – that works too.

Call her over to the spot where you get her ready for her walk, and ask her to sit. As soon as she starts jumping around drop the leash, turn your back and don’t say a word. When she’s quiet for a few seconds pick up the leash and clip it on. If she starts jumping again drop the leash, turn around, wait for her to calm down before trying to attach the leash again.  

It really is as simple as that.

It can be frustrating, I’ve been through it myself, but you’ll be surprised how quickly she will learn – when she’s calm she gets her walk.

I’m a big believer in training with treats, but not in this case because the longed for walk is the reward.  

Good luck.

**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.**   

I have a leash aggressive dog, so this topic hits close to home. That’s not to say the same doesn’t hold true for everything I write about, but figuring out how to stop leash aggression so we can all enjoy our walks, definitely had its’ challenges.

Let’s back up a little bit, and look a bit closer at what’s going on with your own leash aggressive dog.

Ask yourself –   

• Has your dog always been great on a leash, but as he’s getting older he’s becoming aggressive?
• Have you recently adopted a dog with a past that is unknown, and you’ve noticed this aggression when out on a walk?

Consider these possible explanations

• Your dog is experiencing vision and/or hearing loss or impairment, and he’s now feeling anxious or insecure when outside, particularly when approaching other dogs or people.
• Canine cognitive disorder (doggie dementia) causes confusion, so he’s becoming aggressive from stress or anxiety at not recognising familiar places.
• Pain can definitely cause a dog to act out, and if he has arthritis for example, walks can be painful.
• Abuse in your pup’s past can absolutely account for leash aggression, and that’s the situation with my dog Jack. An abused dog can feel insecure, and when a perceived threat in the form of another dog or human is approaching, that discomfort can manifest itself by aggressive behaviour. That is compounded by the fact he is tethered and cannot escape the “threat.”
• A dog that has not been trained to walk nicely on a leash or been socialised, has no idea what to do or what to expect. The fear he may feel can manifest itself as aggression.  

Does anything resonate so far?

Whenever you’re dealing with changes in behaviour, my usual recommendation applies. Get down to your wonderfully helpful vet for a health check, just to rule out any physical causes for this aggression.

The results are in…

If your vet has discovered a cause – perhaps your dog has some arthritis or just isn’t feeling well. Once a treatment plan is in place and your pup starts feeling better, the behaviour should change.

If the reason is due to something like vision or hearing loss, or another health condition that may be challenging to treat, the desensitisation training I will be discussing shortly may not be the best thing to do in that case.

Don’t get me wrong. I adopt senior and special needs dogs, so I don’t believe vision issues, loss of hearing or dementia means they can’t have a great quality of life, with walks and interactions. I am saying that each dog is different, so it may be kinder, in some cases, to take a different approach.

For example, one of my neighbours had a German Shepherd named Sasha. She was mostly blind, deaf and was also dealing with arthritis. Being outside with people and other dogs around made her really nervous, and she would bark constantly.

In this case nothing could be gained by the training, or putting her in situations that scared her. The kindest thing was what her dad would do – walk her close to home when the streets were quiet. If he did see someone approaching he would turn around and carry on. Sasha did much better, and was able to enjoy her outings.

If you have had your dog since he was a puppy

For those who’ve had their dogs from the beginning and whose past is no secret, or your incredibly helpful training has given him a new lease on life, reasons for this aggression can include:

• The walker (you, the dog walker or anyone else who takes him out) giving unintentional signals to be aggressive
• Bad experiences with other dogs caused fear or dislike
• Lack of socialisation, so he never learned to be “okay” around other dogs
• Loves to play so much he gets frustrated being held back
• He doesn’t go for walks nearly as often as he should, so when he finally does he’s pretty much a nightmare

How can a walker unintentionally create leash aggression?

It can be hard to believe that we’re actually creating the condition we’re desperately trying to correct. Here’s how that can happen –

One day a dog may be a bit “aggressive” on a walk, for any number of reasons. When this happens, the walker will instinctively tighten up on the leash to hold the dog back. Makes sense right? This creates 2 problems – 1) the walker becomes on edge each time they’re out, transferring that tension to the dog and teaching him there is something to fear and 2) tightening up on the leash is what you do in attack training – meaning they’re unintentionally training the dog to attack.

Off leash dogs in a park tend to approach each other in an arc, not head on. They sniff, then decide whether to hang out or move on. That’s in real contrast to dogs out for a walk on a leash who approach each other head on, looking at each other, not being able to turn their bodies, all of which in doggie language is threatening. This is intensified when the walkers stop to chat, keeping the dogs in this state longer and longer. As the dogs strain against their leashes, guardians are tightening their grips to hold them back, adding to the problem by confirming for the dogs there is a reason to feel threatened. We’re tense, they’re tense and the cycle continues.

Helpful tips

Never punish your dog for this behaviour. Punishment is not training.

It’s important you teach your dog to pay attention to you, so when you’re home and it’s quiet call his name in a calm voice. When he looks at you, reward him. Try it in increasingly busy areas, as that’s the challenge.

Pay attention to your dog’s body language, noticing what changes occur when he starts to get aggressive. If you intervene at the hint of a first sign, you’ll have better luck preventing full out aggression, and getting him to respond to your commands.

If your dog goes full out aggressive he won’t listen to you, so forget it. Keep walking and remove him from the situation as quickly as possible.

Your own state is equally important. Don’t hold your breath or have rigid posture – be casual, be cool. If you find that difficult, put your headphones on and listen to calming music.

Always keep the leash loose, no tension, but keep a firm grip on the handle.

Play with him for a few minutes before your walk, perhaps a game of fetch in the backyard. A tired dog may be less reactive.

If you have a small dog that can easily be picked up, cover his face so he doesn’t see approaching dogs. Don’t do this as a matter of course, just if you don’t feel in control of the situation.

Cross the road, or turn around.

If a dog is approaching head on try and make a large arc around him. That may be enough to prevent an episode. If he did well and didn’t react, be sure to reward him right away.

Stick to the quieter areas, where encountering others is less likely.

Change your dog walking times to when you know there’s fewer chances of meeting too many dogs and/or people.

Is this really the solution?

These avoidance techniques are a solution in terms of decreasing the chances of your dog getting into a situation which will cause him to be leash aggressive. Of course this won’t help him learn to deal with it. You will also be denying a social creature the opportunity to interact with people and others of his kind, which really isn’t fair.

There is a time and place for avoidance

The training I mention below will help, but it takes practice to get the “timing” right. When we first adopted Jack, I was guilty of using avoidance on occasion when I didn’t feel confident or ready. There’s nothing wrong with that, as long as you do it only sometimes.

There is a difference between avoidance and choosing to minimise the chance of too many interactions at once, particularly if you live in a busy area and it’s constant bombardment for your dog. Finding a time where there are fewer people and dogs about can help with the training.

Create real change using desensitisation

The best way to help is by teaching him great things happen when he meets other dogs and people. It’s about creating positive associations – he sees something he’s been afraid of, and now he gets something delicious.

Use his favourite treats, but keep an eye on his weight, as this training can take some time!  

The desensitisation technique

Think about your own personal space. There is a distance at which you’re fine, but as a person gets closer and closer and invades that space you may start to feel uncomfortable, anxious, or just plain annoyed. The same can hold true for your dog.

He has a range within which he is fine with people and other dogs, but closer and you start to see or hear a change. Does he become more alert? Seem to stand taller? Stop? Can you hear a low growl starting?

For practice, recruit someone you know with a very calm dog. Face each other with your dogs from quite a distance both in front and to your side, then slowly walk towards each other. When you’ve gotten closer to each other, but your dog is still in his “safe” zone, ask him to sit, look at you, and start giving him treats one after the other. You want him focused on you the entire time. Once your friend and dog have passed, stop the treats and keep walking.

That’s it!! You’ll keep doing this until your dog is comfortable at closer and closer distances, and you’ll do the same thing when you’re out on your walks.

I don’t have a friend to help

Don’t worry, I didn’t either!!

Walk your dog in as quiet an area as you can, or a quiet time of day. Having one or two dogs and/or people pass is easier to manage than being bombarded all at once.

As a change of pace you can, at times, sit on a bench in a quiet area with your dog and when someone approaches start feeding him the treats until they’ve passed.  

You’ll want to invest in a treat pouch for quick and easy access!!

You can’t control every scenario

It would be nice if we could control what happens on our walks wouldn’t it? Set up a perfect training environment every time we step out of the house! Believe me, I wished the very same thing!

We’d like –

• Enough warning when a dog approaches
• No influx of dogs and humans when the park is “supposed” to be empty
• Every time you give your dog a treat he will ignore a passing dog, and calmly sit until he passes
• When you kindly ask a person to ignore your dog and not approach him because he’s nervous…they actually respect what you’re saying and listen!!

You will not be perfect

This is all new to you and there’s a learning curve for everyone, so please do not be hard on yourself. You’re going to do great!!

• You may not always get the timing of the treats right
• You may panic because your dog starts going nuts before you have a chance to get the treats out
• There will be times your dog will be so riled up he’ll ignore the treats
• You’ll freeze and forget what you’re supposed to do
• If you’re feeling unsure, or someone comes up suddenly, stay calm, change directions and keep going. It takes practice to get the timing right, so don’t panic.

What happens if it’s not working?

The thing is, it’s impossible to put a deadline on how long it will take. Every dog has a different story, and each learns at their own pace. In my case it took a good few weeks to see progress.  

If you’re having trouble with the technique, or you’re not seeing any improvement, a trainer will help.

Does this mean he’ll be perfectly behaved on our walks now?

It is possible your dog will always have some leash issues, but don’t be discouraged. Jack is 1000 times better than he was, but I’m still always alert on our walks. There are cues I use to help calm him, and with time and practice you’ll find the words that work best for your dog.

For me a big problem is always people who insist on trying to bend down and pet him, because he’s so darn cute!! I ask them nicely to ignore him as he’s nervous due to being mistreated. Most respect my word, but you’ll always have some that don’t, so just keep on walking.

Products that could help

While they won’t help with your part in the training, what these items are designed to do is give a “heads up” to others so they know what your dog is like.

Harnesses, collars, leashes and vests with messages are a great way to let people know what’s going on with your dog. They say things like – Friendly/Deaf Dog/Nervous

A few months ago I saw a woman whose dog was wearing a vest that said “give me space.” Yesterday I met a woman with 2 dogs – one had a harness that said “friendly” the other a collar that said “deaf dog.”

They are definitely not the only answer, but as far as I’m concerned, anything we can do to help is worth doing.

How to walk a leash aggressive dog – conclusion

I imagine you’re feeling worried or even overwhelmed by what you’ve just read, and I know how you feel. When I first started this I was so nervous, and believe me it took a while until I gained my confidence and figured out the best way to help Jack. Take as long as you need to re-read this until it makes sense, but don’t put off making a start because you’re nervous. I’ve been there too!

Desensitisation does work, and even if your dog still has his “moments” you will find them so much easier to manage.

You’ve got this!!

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