Now that the weather is finally getting nicer and road tripping is on many a mind, it’s the perfect time to talk car accessories for dogs.

I have always taken dog car safety pretty seriously, even more so since the day we got a ticket while driving in Spain. We had 3 dogs with us, my sweet girl Red who weighed less than 10lbs and was in her travel bag, our other small dog Jack who was happily resting on my husband’s lap (I was driving) and our foster dog Petra, a bigger dog who was sleeping on the back seat.

None of the dogs were visible, but I think it was the ginormous rental car sticker on the back that got the policemen’s attention. We were pulled over and in my few words of Spanish and his 4 words of English, we were told dogs have to be restrained in the car and we got a ticket. Boy was I fuming, especially because my pleadings of ignorance regarding Spanish driving laws fell on deaf ears.

That’s the day I went out and bought a seat belt.

Even if it’s not a law where you live, or you don’t know whether it is or not, I say get yourself one of the many car restraints for dogs available on the market. I hate to sound like a cliché but…it really is better to be safe than sorry.

**There are affiliate links in this post. If you buy something I may receive a commission. This has no effect on the price you pay**

Options

I’m all about options and love when there’s choice, so here are a few car accessories for dogs to choose from.

Car seat for dogs

Can you believe just like babies have car seats, dogs do as well!!

If you want something a bit more secure, then a car booster seat for dogs may be the option you’re looking for. They are plush, comfortable and raised off the seat so your dog can still look out the window.

Easy to install, they come with a tether that attaches to the dog’s harness to ensure he doesn’t jump out. Most have washable liners and exteriors and some even have a storage compartment for some of your dog’s supplies.

Pet barriers

There are a couple of barrier styles to consider. One is metal and keeps the dog in the cargo area of a vehicle, the other is mesh and attaches behind the front seats. It blocks off the gap between the driver and passenger seats so your dog can’t climb through.

Seat belt

Did you know there was such a thing as car seat belts for dogs!! I don’t know what I expected the first time I saw one, but I don’t think it was an actual seat belt, similar to what you see in every car.

The picture above shows Red in her Sherpa bag and Jack with his seat belt, before it was adjusted!!

The doggy version is adjustable with a buckle (tongue) on one end that clicks into the bracket on your car’s seat just like the ones for humans. The other end has a clip like the end of a leash that attaches to a harness. Even if your dog doesn’t usually wear a harness, I would put one on him in the car because I don’t like the thought of clipping the belt onto the collar, I feel like it would pull too much and there is potential for injury.

Pet carrier

Another way to keep your dog safe in the car is by using a pet carrier, and the one I’ve used for years is the Sherpa bag. I originally bought it because it was airline approved, and I was flying with my cat in the cabin from Toronto to Florida. I used it for Red many times when it was just the two of us in the car. I kept it on the passenger seat with the zipper partially open because it gave her the freedom to stick her head out the top, but she was still safe in the bag.

Dog crate

The last item I’m going to mention is a dog crate. Available in wire or plastic models, they come in a variety of sizes so naturally the one you choose will depend on the size of your dog and the size of your car. If your dog will be in the car for several hours, the wire crate is a lot more open so he can see what’s going on and allows for greater air circulation.

Car accessories for dogs – conclusion

It’s so fun to bring our pups along on our road adventures, but I hope you see how important it is to make safety the number one priority when traveling with dogs in cars.

What product do you use to keep you and your pup safe on the road? Have you tried others and if you have, what made you choose the one you’re currently using? Sharing helps others so leave your comment below.

Dear Hindy,

My wife and I live with Ronald our 10 year old Lab mix, and recently we’ve noticed a few new behaviours. I did some research and they seem to indicate symptoms of dog dementia. I had no idea there was even such a thing and we’re not sure what to do.

Thank you,

Steve and Amanda

Dear Steve and Amanda,

Thanks so much for writing in, and I understand how confusing this must all seem. Don’t worry I will do my best to help you figure it out.

The thing about dementia in a dog is, because many of the symptoms are similar to other health issues, pretty much the only way to diagnose it is by a process of elimination.

I recommend you call your vet right now to make an appointment, then carry on with this post so we can take a look at some of the signs of dementia in dogs.

This checklist is sorted by category so you can easily tick off the behaviours you’re noticing and print it out to take to your appointment. One more very helpful piece of advice – take a video when possible, it will help your vet with a diagnosis!

Housetraining 

• Goes outside and wanders, then pees and poops in the house
• Doesn’t let you know she has to go out like she used to
• Seems to have forgotten her training

Anxiety

• Seems fearful and/or anxious
• Barks for no apparent reason
• Aggressive but never was before
• Trembles for no apparent reason
• Afraid of people she knows

Sleep and awake patterns

• Sleeps more during the day, less at night
• Wanders or cries at night

Disorientation

• Performs the same behaviours over and over
• Has trouble eating or drinking
• Doesn’t respond to her name or cues
• Wanders aimlessly/paces
• Seems lost or confused in familiar surroundings like the house or yard
• Gets stuck in corners or other tight spaces and just stands there
• Stares into space or at walls
• Doesn’t recognize family or friends
• Gets stuck under or behind furniture/wrong side of door
• Walks in circles, usually in one direction 

Interaction with family and others in your household

• Doesn’t look for attention like he used to
• Walks away when petted
• Withdrawn from family

Activity level

• Less interested in his toys
• Plays very little or not at all

I hope this helps, and please keep me posted on what’s going on.

Take care,

Hindy

In this post we’re going to be talking about how to stop a dog marking in the house. Before I go any further it’s important for me to clarify one major point –there is a difference between a dog marking in the house and a dog peeing in the house.

Peeing or marking?

Puddles in the house will typically signal peeing, while urine marking is done in small amounts, usually to an upright surface, although horizontal surfaces work well too!! If you’ve determined it’s peeing, the question now becomes why?

Reasons why your dog is peeing in the house

Not getting enough walks or opportunities to go out

You may want to re-visit your dog walking schedule, and make sure everyone responsible for taking the dog out is, in fact, taking the dog out.

Drinking a lot of water

It may be as simple as your dog feeling the heat and drinking a lot

He may not have access to a water bowl wherever he ends up settling, can’t be bothered to find one so drinks a lot when he finally does find a water source.

If you have an old dog, increased drinking may be due to a change in medication, kidney disease, diabetes or dementia to name just a few reasons. If this is the case please see your vet as soon as possible.

What is dog marking NOT?

It is not a house training issue, your dog seeking revenge or being spiteful for something you’ve done.

Why dogs urine mark in the house

It is usually a sign of anxiety or stress or claiming ownership. Some of the situations that can cause a dog to mark include –  

• a new baby
• an unfamiliar face
• another pet
• new things in the house
• moving house
• being adopted
• sign of illness or medical problem in an old dog
• may see a dog outside and feel the need to mark his territory
• suffering from separation anxiety
• lacks confidence
• reaction to unfixed animals in the house
• staking his claim to items or territory he thinks belong to him

Do all dogs do it?

No, they don’t.

It seems fixing a dog when they’re fairly young makes it less likely they’ll mark. Unfixed males are bigger culprits than fixed ones, and small breeds more than larger ones. Females have also been known to mark, but it’s far less common.

Please do not…

Yell or hit your dog, it is never an answer to any issue.

If you come home and find he’s been busy, just clean it up. There’s nothing to say after the fact.

How to stop a dog marking in the house

Check-up time. The first thing you should always do when you notice a change in your dog’s behaviour, especially if you live with a senior dog, is to take him to the vet for a check-up. You want to rule out medical issues first.

Neuter your dog. Although it’s not a guarantee, it’s a great start and should be done anyway! Here’s my opportunity to lecture about the importance of spaying and neutering in order to prevent unwanted litters. Before you start to allow your animals to breed for profit, walk into any animal shelter and see them overflowing with abandoned animals. Okay I’m off my soapbox!

Keep objects out of reach. If he likes to mark visitors’ belongings, new items you’ve just bought or whatever you notice he tends to like doing it on, keep that/them out of reach.

Catch him in the act. You have the best chance of your dog learning that it’s not okay if you catch him in the act. When we first adopted Jack he started marking, something I had never experienced before, and quite frankly wasn’t very fond of! After catching him a few times and saying “no” like I meant it (and I most certainly did!), he stopped.

I do know he’s likely to do it in someone’s house if I’m not watching so I keep my eye on him when we’re visiting. I believe he’s marking his territory and seems to think a lot of things belong to him.

Change your route. Why not take him to explore different areas on your walks, giving him lots of opportunity to mark plenty of new objects.

Introduce the newcomer. If your dog is letting you know he’s anxious or stressed about the new face in the house, introduce them and let them get to know each other. Treats or toys are great ice breakers. If your dog has his own spot, keep the newbie out of there until they’re on good terms and even then he may not be welcomed. Keep them separated if you have to when no one is around, just until they’re getting along.

Watch for signs and make some noise. Look for signs he’s about to lift his leg – he could be showing a bit too much interest in an item or area, or sniffing in one spot, then say “no” in a firm voice, clap your hands, stamp your foot…whatever works. No need to scream, you don’t want to scare him you just want to distract him.

Physical exercise and mental stimulation. Boredom can quickly make marking behaviour worse, so make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise (swimming, walking, hiking, agility, indoor dog park…according to his mobility level) and mental stimulation in the form of puzzle toys and games. 

Praise. When your dog pees/marks outside, praise him, a lot, and give him treats or toys (whatever motivates him). You want him to learn rewards are high for doing the “right” thing.

What’s your dog’s marking behaviour?  For example, does he pee on his bed or your other dog’s bed if left alone too long? Pick the bed up off the floor next time you go out, and see if that makes a difference. Jack was never keen on my heart dog Red. He didn’t bother her but I do believe he was jealous of her so at one point he started to mark her bed. I stopped that behaviour very quickly and all it took was picking her bed up off the floor when I went out.

Clean. Any area your dog peed in must be thoroughly cleaned and odours eliminated. Masking them isn’t enough, because your dog can still smell them.

Separation anxiety. Dogs that suffer from separation anxiety may pee from anxiety or lack of confidence. See my article on treating separation anxiety for tips that may help.

Make him feel safe. You need to train him, create structure and routine. This goes a long way to reducing anxiety.

Belly band. As the name suggests it is a band of fabric that wraps around your dog’s belly and absorbs urine.  

Confinement. Some dogs may never be trusted, and since it’s impossible to watch him 24 hours a day, your best bet may be to limit his free run access of the house. Confining him to smaller areas with baby gates and barricades when no one is around is a good solution.

If he marks in my house, will he mark in every house?

It is entirely possible, especially if they also have pets. Either leave him at home so you can relax and have fun or, if you really want to bring him, keep him on a leash so you can monitor him.

How to stop a dog marking in the house – conclusion

If you have a dog that urine marks, believe me I know how you feel! I do hope you found the information helpful, and I would be very interested to hear how things are going.

Is there a specific item your dog marks? Can you recognise the signs before he does it? Have you been able to stop this behaviour and if yes, what’s your secret? Sharing helps others so please leave a comment below.

**There is an affiliate link in this post, so if you buy something I may receive a commission. This has no effect on the price for you.**

Congratulations you’re doing so well with the training, and now you’re ready for tips on how to crate train a puppy at night. If you just happened to come across this article but haven’t started crate training yet, this article “5 Easy Steps to Crate Training a New Puppy” is a great place to start.

Great, you’re back!

You’ve decided to keep the crate in the bedroom, at least for a little while until your puppy is sleeping through the night.

Reasons for your decision

It will help your puppy feel more secure in unfamiliar surroundings

You will be able to hear him if he barks/whines to go out. If not, he may pee or poop in the crate, which could set back your house training efforts.

Getting your puppy ready for a good night’s sleep

Tire him out! Plenty of exercise during the day and into the evening (just to be clear, I’m not talking about a marathon), and no naps too close to bedtime. A tired puppy, is a puppy who will sleep.

Take him out to pee/poop right before bed.

Don’t give food or water roughly 3 hours before bedtime. If your puppy has special needs, a medical condition, or you’re unsure if it’s okay consult your vet.

Whining/Barking in the crate

Ignore him! I mean it, ignore him!

You’ve done everything right. You’ve tired him out, taken him to pee/poop, and made his crate nice and comfy. You closed the door and, wait… what’s that you’re hearing?

Poor little thing! You just want to check on him quickly – don’t.

He is in a strange environment, away from his litter mates and the familiar. He’s bound to be afraid. If all he’s doing is looking for attention, don’t give it to him.

The second he sees you responding to his hails, even if you just poke your head through the door without saying a word, he has now learned that when he whines or barks you come. He’ll also learn to do it louder next time. You don’t want to go down that road, it will only lead to a dog that barks constantly.

If you skipped a step in your night time prep, and it’s likely he has to go out, try and wait for a bit of quiet before you open the crate door.

Handling middle of the night pee/poop breaks

Puppies just can’t hold it too long so if they don’t get taken out often enough, accidents are going to happen. Having said that, by following the middle of the night potty schedule below, you have a good chance of reducing and even preventing them from happening.

Here’s a great tip – To get yourself out the door quickly and without stumbling around, gather everything you’ll need in one place – sweater, jacket, shoes, flashlight, leash, poop bags…

It’s about getting the job done, and back to bed. Take him out, say “go pee” (or whatever cue you use), then in. That’s it.

Middle of the night potty schedule

One way to help minimise or perhaps even eliminate the barking to go out is to pre-empt his letting you know, by letting him know when it’s time.

To start with, set your alarm every 2-4 hours. If you’re not sure how long he can wait, err on the side of caution and go for shorter intervals. When this is working well for a few nights, extend the time in between alarms by 30 minutes.

Extend this every few days (as long as it’s working well, otherwise go back a bit), until he’s sleeping through the night.

How to crate train a puppy at night – conclusion

I admit it can be a bit of a pain for a short time, but now that you know how to crate train a puppy at night, you’re halfway towards success!!

Dear Hindy,

Can dogs get dementia? I’m asking because my old dog Barney (he’s 14) has been behaving really strangely the past few months. I feel terrible because I figured it was him just getting older, but my friend told me it’s probably dementia. Her old dog had it and she recognised some of the signs of dog dementia. I can’t believe it I’m freaking out and don’t know what to do. Please help!!

Thank you,

Regina

Dear Regina,

I’m so sorry to hear about what’s going on with Barney, but please try not to panic. I know how tough that is but I hope you can relax for a moment and take a breath…at least long enough for you to read my reply!  

In answer to your question can dogs get dementia, yes they most certainly can but…does it mean your dog definitely has it? No it certainly does not!

There is no one test to diagnose dementia in a dog, and many of the symptoms can be due to other health issues. For example –

If your dog –

• is pacing and can’t settle he could be in discomfort or pain
• has been having accidents in the house, he may be drinking more due to new medication
• gets stuck behind a door or under a table he may be losing his vision

See where I’m going with this?

Here’s my best advice

Make an appointment to see your vet sooner rather than later. Once you’ve done that, think back to some of the behaviours you’ve been seeing you assumed were part of the normal aging process and write them down. If possible, take a video because that can really help your vet with a diagnosis.

If it’s been awhile since your dog has had a check-up, please make sure blood and urine tests are also done. Once the test results are back you will have a clearer picture of what’s going on and you can then take the next step.

If your dog is very anxious and you want to try something right now, an Adaptil plug in, spray or collar might help and look into Rescue Remedy as well. These are just a couple of products you can find easily.

Good luck and please let me know how your appointment goes.

Hindy

Dear Hindy,

I desperately need advice on how to help my dog lose weight. I was in the park recently, and a very rude woman told me my dog’s back looked like a table, than chastised me for allowing him to get to that state!! When I told a couple of people I know about that horrible encounter, I expected sympathy but instead they all agreed with her and had been afraid to tell me! I have since learned it can be very bad for their health, so please help me help Frank!!

Thank you,

Sharon

Dear Sharon,

First I want to thank you for reaching out, and then I want to say don’t beat yourself up! What’s important is that you’re doing something about it starting right now. I don’t know how much or how often Frank eats, or how much exercise he gets so I’m going to write a few points to get you started.

I recommend you have your dog checked out by the vet if it’s been awhile. You want to know how his overall health is, current weight and the ideal. Most practices have a free weight loss clinic so ask if they offer that service. 

I am not a fan of leaving food out all day for dogs to graze on, so I would make a schedule to feed him twice a day. In terms of the type of food he’s eating that’s a book in itself, but I would recommend you find a food with limited ingredients you can actually identify! There are lots of FB groups about nutrition and homemade diets you can check out. 

Treats are fine but within moderation and if they’re good for him. How about a piece of raw carrot or apple (without the seeds)? There are tons of super simple homemade dog treat recipes on Pinterest you could try.

I don’t know Frank’s age or his level of mobility, but typically dogs need about 3 walks a day, and they should be at least 20-30 minutes, longer depending on the type of dog and his needs.  You may only be able to walk him 5 or 10 minutes at a time, and that’s okay you’ll get there. 

Dog activity monitors

There are a couple of dog activity monitors you may want to check out, in case you think they will be helpful. I don’t have any personal experience with them but it seems like they would be worth looking into. One is the PitPat  and the other is called FitBark2 

Hope this helps!!

Hindy

**There are affiliate links in this post, so if you make a purchase I may make a commission. It has no effect on the price for you**

I think the dog stroller is one of the all time greatest inventions, so I’m going to help you choose the best pet stroller for your pup.

How it helped my dogs

It made a massive difference in the lives of two of my dogs – Red, my heart dog who sadly gained her wings last year, and Jack. Let’s talk about Red quickly. Although she was small and weighed less than 10lbs, she would get very heavy after just a few minutes of carrying her. She was a blind old dog when we adopted her, and although she was perfectly able to walk, she was quite slow. That wasn’t an issue when taking her for walks in the park or quieter areas, but if we were off on a day trip in a crowded area, or just wanted to have a wander, it was a lot easier and safer to put her in her doggie stroller. If you have an old dog, I highly recommend you buy one. 

About 2 1/2 years ago our other dog Jack became paralysed quite suddenly. He was fine in the morning and by mid afternoon his back legs stopped working. Luckily surgery was an option, but his recovery was long and for quite some time he was only allowed 5 minute walks. We needed to make sure he wouldn’t get bored or start feeling depressed, so with permission from his neurologist I took Jack out every day in the stroller, making sure we stopped in to see some of his favourite humans along the way.

Even after Jack was fully recovered, there were still times he used it when we were out as a family with Red. After running on a hot day he would often take a break by lying underneath it in the shade it created. He has also been known to hitch a ride part of the way home until he got his second wind!

Are you ready to buy a dog stroller?

Whether this is the first time you’ve ever heard of such a thing, or you’ve been looking for ages and are totally overwhelmed by the number of styles and options, I’m going to help you figure out how to choose the best pet stroller for your dog.

Here are my tips in no particular order

Budget

It’s hard to decide how much you’re willing to spend on something, if you have no idea how much that something costs!! The good news is strollers for dogs are available in a wide range of prices, so you should find a price point you’re comfortable with. If you’re willing to buy second hand you can probably find a great deal in a local Facebook buy and sell group for example. 

Weight the pet stroller can accommodate

You will find weight guidelines on the tag, product description or booklet, and it’s a good idea to follow them so you know the frame will offer enough support. If your dog is at the recommended weight or even just below it, I would play it safe and buy a bigger stroller. 

Size dog it can accommodate

Weight and size are 2 different things. You may find a great stroller that suits your dog’s weight, but not all dogs with the same weight will be the same size. To find out your dog’s size measure him from nose to tail then width, and compare them to the interior dimensions of the stroller. If the numbers too closely match I would buy the next size up, so I can be sure there is enough room for a comfy blanket and for my dog to stretch out.

How does it look?

There’s nothing wrong with having a nice looking stroller if that’s important to you, after all you’re going to be using it a lot! I was so excited when I decided to buy my first one, I gave absolutely no thought to how I would feel pushing a dog in a bright red stroller. Keep in mind I live in an area where you hardly ever see one! My husband was happy we stuck out so much because he felt it would be a conversation starter. He wanted people with older dogs to realise it was a great way to get their pups out of the house, rather than leaving them home alone because of mobility issues. I guess we were performing a public service! 

Quality

A good quality stroller doesn’t have to cost a fortune, but it is absolutely an important feature. The last thing you want is for it to break down miles from home.

Handle height and placement

Is the handle height comfortable where it is or does it need to be adjustable? Some pet strollers have the option, others do not. Placement refers to how far the handle sticks out, which can affect whether or not you kick the tires as you walk, especially if you’re going at a quicker pace. 

Foldable

You definitely want a stroller you can fold to keep it out of the way when not in use, and to easily transport in the car or even the train. Most need two hands to fold it (mine does), some just one.   

Latch to keep pet stroller closed

Trust me when I tell you it’s a much needed feature. On my stroller there was (yes, past tense!) a latch affixed to one part of the frame, and once it’s folded you click it onto the other part and it keeps the stroller closed. Unfortunately ours was lost (I don’t want to blame my husband but it wasn’t me!!), and believe me it not the same without it. I should really try and find a replacement.

Extendable canopy

Having a canopy that extends is a very important feature. On a beautiful day you can keep it open, but if the sun becomes too hot for your dog, it starts to rain or there are too many bugs about, it’s good to have the option to close it. 

Viewing port

I love this feature and it’s on the canopy of my pet stroller. Made of mesh with a velcro flap, it not only provides an extra source of ventilation when the canopy is closed, it also allows me to easily check on my dog without stopping and walking around to the front of the stroller.

How easy is it to push?

Pushing an 8lb dog on a paved path is one thing, pushing an 85lb dog over rough terrain is quite another. If it’s too hard to use no one will benefit. The weight of the stroller and type of tires are some determining factors. 

Multiple uses

Sometimes a stroller is just a stroller, but other times it can also be a bike trailer, car seat or even a pet carrier. Yep, there are some that come in multiple configurations so one product can serve more than one purpose.

Amount and quality of mesh in the fabric

More mesh means more breathability, and a better view for your dog if he’s too small to see out the top or if he’s lying down. Pay attention to the sturdiness of the mesh, too thin and he can claw it and tear it.

Enclosing the stroller

I would say most strollers have the option of completely enclosing it, and I like that for a couple of reasons. One being added protection from the weather, the other for safety to prevent the dog from jumping or trying to jump out. When the canopy is open it attaches to the stroller with a zipper or non-zip option.  

How many points of entry

Some strollers have one way to put your dog in and that’s through the top, others also have a rear zippered entry. This is particularly handy if you have a bigger dog, or you are unable to lift him. If it’s low enough to the ground your senior dog may be able to walk right in, but if he can’t a small step will help.

Another advantage to rear entry is you can unzip it slightly if you have to reach in and grab something or even fix the blanket on your dog if it’s chilly out.

Safety tether

A tether is a wonderful safety feature and one I always used. It is a leash that comes attached to the stroller with a clip at the end that you can attach to your dog’s collar or harness.

Tires and wheels

Not all tires are suitable for all terrains, plastic being perfectly fine for smooth pavement, while air filled are better for rougher and uneven surfaces.  Mine are plastic but because I only use it on smooth surfaces, they are perfect for my needs. 

Fixed wheels or swivel? My stroller has swivel wheels which work well on paved surfaces such as sidewalks and stores. They are also good for turning corners and added maneuverability. Fixed wheels are best for jogging and off road. Some strollers have wheels you can let swivel or fix into place.  

Rear locking wheels

An excellent safety feature to stop a stroller from rolling, you simply engage and disengage with your foot. Perfect for public transport, stopping for a chat, parking the stroller while walking the dog, or even while loading and unloading your pet.

Storage basket

For me a storage basket underneath the stroller is a must have, so check the size before you buy. On day trips we do take a knapsack, but having the basket means quicker access for things like – an extra sweater, human and canine water and snacks, sun hat, sun tan lotion….

Parent tray

Most strollers have it, although configurations may differ. It’s super convenient for items you want to keep close to hand such as water bottles, keys, phone, treats…  If you like to keep a water bottle within easy reach, check the depth of the holder. Mine is perfect for a small bottle of about 8oz (250ml) or so, anything bigger and it will fall out if we walk on rougher terrain. It’s not a huge deal although slightly inconvenient. I put it in the canopy when it’s closed but when it’s open I have to put it in the storage basket.  

Rain cover

Some pet strollers come with it, most don’t, mine didn’t. They can be purchased separately because they are handy to have should you get caught in a rainstorm. Even if the stroller fabric is water resistant, if the rain is heavy enough it may get in.

How to choose the best pet stroller for your dog – conclusion

Whether you have an old dog with mobility issues, a dog recovering from surgery or illness, or your dog just can’t walk that far, pet strollers for dogs are definitely worth looking into.

Is this the first you’re hearing about a stroller for dogs? If yes, does it sound like something that could benefit your dog? Let me know what you think in the comments section below.

Everyone is so excited about the upcoming road trip with the dog, especially because it’s the first time he’ll be joining you!! I have to say I have quite a bit of experience traveling with my dogs and cats, and that includes in the car, so I’m going to help ensure you have an awesome experience.  

Depending on how long your road trip is some of the information may not be relevant, so pick and choose what you need.

**There are affiliate links in this post which means, if you purchase anything I may receive a commission. This has no effect on the price you pay.**

First things first, does your dog even like the car?

Does he find car rides fun, tolerable, or would hell be more enjoyable? I’m just saying!! You don’t want to wait until the car is packed to put the dog in and hope for the best.

If all is fine, skip down to the next steps. If it is not, help is here

If you know your dog hates the car (perhaps you know the reason, perhaps you don’t) then my advice to you is – start the training now while there’s still lots of time to prepare.

Helping your dog love the car

You can get him used to the car, and hopefully even enjoy a ride using a technique called desensitisation. What that means is – creating positive associations between one thing and another. In this instance, the use of tasty treats to teach your pup something really good always happens when he gets in the car.

I have no idea at what stage your dog is at – is he fine until you’re driving more than a few minutes, or does seeing the car send him screaming into the night? For the sake of this article, I am going to assume it’s the latter so here’s what you do.

Step by step

Equip yourself with treats your dog absolutely loves but doesn’t normally get. That could be chicken, turkey, cheese, carrots or even something homemade you make on occasion. You want to save that kind of treat for when you need to bring out the serious bribery. This next statement is obvious but I am going to mention it anyway – give him very small pieces, you don’t want him gaining weight or getting ill.

Start at the point where your dog is still fine. For example, let’s say he’s fine when he sees the car in the driveway, as long as it’s through the window of the house. Great, so while he’s looking out the window at the car, give him a treat. The next step is opening the door for him to see the car more clearly (keep him on a leash!). If he’s still fine, give him a treat. Take a step forward, still fine, another treat.

If any step causes panic, that’s okay – don’t say anything, don’t give him any treats, go back in the house and be cool like nothing happened.

Try again later, but start from the point where he was still fine, and slow down the speed at which you move from step to step. You may have gone too quickly. Do this all the way until you can get him sitting in a moving car.

You see where I’m going with this? You will eventually get him into the car, but it may take some time. You could spend several sessions before you are able to move onto the next step and that’s absolutely fine. It’s better to go slowly and take longer getting him comfortable, than trying to rush and setting back his training.

Keep each session short and try and leave it on a positive note.

If you are a bit unclear as to the process, need some clarification, or have any questions at all, please contact me through my website. I would be happy to help.

That’s all fine and dandy, but we’re leaving in two days!

If you are that soon, here are things you can do right away to help:

Desensitisation – Start with the desensitisation training anyway – you can’t go wrong with teaching your dog new things!

Calming music – One I love that has worked wonders for my dog (although it was a different issue) is called Through a Dog’s Ear – bio-acoustically designed classical music proven to help calm dogs with anxiety. To begin with, play it when he is in a relaxed state. If he gets used to hearing it when he’s calm, hearing it when he’s anxious should create an association between the music and that wonderfully relaxed state, causing him to settle rather quickly. It is not guaranteed to work on every dog, but the success rate is 80%. For more information please read my review. 

Rescue Remedy – Rescue Remedy is a combination of 5 Bach flower remedies, it is used to treat anxiety in pets and humans. A drop or two in water or directly on his food may help. 

Valerian or Valerian with Skullcap – Valerian is an herbal supplement with mild sedative properties that can help with anxiety. Read more in this article “Valerian Root for Dogs: Does it Work?”  

Adaptil – A non drug solution to help calm dogs in stressful situations, Adaptil is available in many forms including a collar and spray, perfect for car travel. This is a brief explanation of what it is is, taken from their website – “Mother dogs communicate with their puppies using natural “comforting messages” released from the mammary zone.  These “comforting messages“ are scientifically called Dog Appeasing Pheromones. They are odourless and are only perceived by dogs.  They provide a strong signal of comfort and security to dogs of all ages.”

Ingress and egress assistance

My fancy way of asking if your dog needs help getting in and out of the car! Whether your dog is too small to jump in on his own, has mobility issues that make it difficult, or you have mobility issues that prevent you from picking him up, a ramp is the answer. Available in many different sizes and a variety of price ranges, you will find one to suit your needs. A very important point to keep in mind is the degree of incline. If the incline is high, it may be too steep for your dog to use, so aim for gradual if possible.

Once you get the dog ramp home the next question is – will he use it? I recommend you allow your dog to check it out and have a go before you’re packing up the car. If he’s hesitant you can try my trick (well, not mine but something I’ve done that worked) – put a delicious treat at the bottom of the ramp. If he approaches the ramp and eats it no problem, put the next treat a little higher, then the next one a little higher. If he hesitates at any time, leave it, and try again later. Start at the bottom again, and very slowly work your way up. More effective if you keep all training sessions short.

If you’re running out of time, and he’s not yet ready to use the ramp, get some help to put him in the car. Bring the ramp with you and practice on the trip.

Read this if you want to know how I taught my dog to use a ramp.  

Be careful when opening the car door

If you have been allowing your dog to jump out of the car as soon as the door opens, you might want to stop that. It could be dangerous, especially on a road trip. Teach him to “wait” when the door opens, only allowing him to jump out or walk down the ramp on your command. It’s a good idea to put a leash on him before letting him out, you don’t want him taking off after a squirrel and getting lost, or hurt.

In car safety for the four legged and two legged passengers

It’s not safe to let your dog have free run of the car, and that goes for dogs of any size. He could not only hurt himself, but he could distract the driver enough to cause a serious accident. Even if he is perfectly behaved and sits still better than your kids, it is advisable to restrain him in some away. If you have to brake suddenly, or are, heaven forbid involved in a fender bender, your dog could get seriously injured. All humans are strapped in for that reason, why not your dog. He is a member of the family!

• Don’t let your dog sit in front of an airbag
• You often see dogs with their heads stuck out the window, wind in their fur… they’re loving it. But it’s not a good idea – he can get hurt by a passing car, or flying debris. Nothing wrong with leaving the window open a bit for the breeze though!

Before you set off…

Feed your dog before you go but make it a light meal, at least three hours before you leave. You don’t want him getting sick in the car.

What to pack for your dog

What, you thought you were the only one that needed to pack a bag?

Here is a list of stuff

• health and vaccination records, including rabies certificate. Even if you’re staying relatively close to home, you never know when you may need them
• food
• treats
• water supply
• bowls
• leash/harness – even if your dog doesn’t typically wear a harness, if he’s a bit skittish and you’re going to a new environment, a harness is a good safe option
• favourite toys
• bed/blanket
• anything else your dog really loves

Your dog should be microchipped and wear a collar with a tag – both should have up to date contact information. In the unlikely event he goes missing, you want to make sure you do everything you can to ensure his safe return. An up to date photo isn’t a bad idea to have either.

What to pack in

I usually pack the dog stuff in a knapsack, and then I spend a ton of time trying to find what I’m looking for. It starts off so neatly organised, and by the end things are flying I get so annoyed. Look at how much more organised you’re going to be with one of these dog travel bags.

During the journey

Keep your dog hydrated throughout the journey, particularly if you are travelling in warm weather. Just because the air conditioning is on doesn’t mean your pup won’t get thirsty. Keep a water bottle and bowl handy.

Stop often enough to allow your dog to take care of business, and get some exercise. If you’re traveling with an old dog who is peeing more often, take that into consideration.

Depending on how long your drive is, you may also need to schedule in a meal break. If you know your dog doesn’t get car sick that’s great, but if you’re not sure then be on the safe side and keep the portions small.  

You might be stopping in a busy area, so don’t let your dog out of the car on the traffic side.

Designated rest stops have plenty of light from gas stations and restaurants if your journey is taking you through the night, but if you pull over in a dark area why not put a high viz vest on your dog so you, and others, can easily see him. A flashing dog collar, light up leash and flashlight are also good ways to stay as visible as possible.

When stopping for a break for the humans in your group, never leave the dog alone in the car, even if you think it will only be for a few minutes. It won’t take long for your dog to suffer heatstroke and die in hot weather, or freeze to death in cold. You also never know who spots him alone and snatches him. If you’re traveling alone you may not have a choice, so at least set the car alarm.

Dogs have very sensitive hearing, so don’t blast the radio or movie player.

How to have an awesome road trip with the dog – conclusion

I hope you found these tips on taking a road trip with the dog helpful, and you will now be able to include your animal companions in more family adventures. It’s never the same without them, is it?

Do you take your dog with you on car trips? Tell us how you keep them safe and calm during the drive. Sharing helps others so let us know by leaving your story in the comment section below, and/or on my Facebook page if you’re traveling with a senior dog.

**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.**  

Dear Hindy,

I’ve been doing some leash shopping recently, and I can’t figure out what the best type of dog leash is. Can you tell me please! Thank you, Lydia

Dear Lydia,

I know what you mean, there are lots of styles, materials, designs and lengths to choose from, it’s tough to decide!! You didn’t mention how old your dog is or whether or not he or she walks nicely on a leash, so I’ll cover as many bases as I can.

A standard leash comes in lengths of 4’, 5’ or 6’ and the most common materials are nylon and leather. The other type is called an extendable or flexi leash. The handle comes in a variety of sizes, and the wire that extends out of the handle is available in different widths and lengths, the one you choose will depend on the size (and strength) of your dog.

My personal preference is a 5’ nylon leash and I’ll explain why. I find the 4’ doesn’t allow my dog enough freedom to sniff (although I do use it at times), and the 6’ is so long I have to wrap it around my hand too many times for it to be comfortable. I buy nylon because I don’t buy leather! As a bonus nylon comes in a ton of colors and patterns if you want to be fashionable!!

I don’t believe flexi leashes are safe, even though the majority of people I see use them. They allow their dogs to walk so far ahead of them, one step over and they’re in the street in front of a car. You don’t have the control of a standard leash should you need to get a firm hold of your dog or stop him from entering a dangerous situation, like crossing into the road. It’s a lot harder and certainly more painful to grab onto the wire of a flexi leash than a standard one.

Do I believe there is a place for a flexi leash? Absolutely. I use them for my old dogs who have mobility or vision issues and just wander around on the grass, or take short walks along the sidewalk. Having said that, I never use one if I’m on busy streets with them.  

Good luck.

**There is an affiliate link in this post, which means if you purchase anything I make a commission. This has no effect on the price for you. **

**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.**  

Dear Hindy,

My husband and I just adopted our first dog, but we’re confused about how often to feed Stella. I’ve been asking people and some tell me once a day, some say twice, and I’ve even been told to leave food in a big bowl so Stella can eat when she wants. What’s the right answer! Thank you, Zoe

Dear Zoe,

First let me congratulate you on rescuing and saving Stella’s life!!

 There are so many reasons why I don’t like free feeding, (leaving food out all day) and they include –

• It makes house training hard
• I like the idea of a routine and consistency when it comes to meal and walk times
• If a dog is prone to resource guarding, having food constantly out that he has to guard can be very stressful
• Missed opportunity for training such as teaching him to “come” and “wait” or “stay”
• Bugs!

To me once a day means loading up the bowl with your dog’s daily requirement, then expecting her to sit and eat the whole thing in one go. What if she doesn’t? Will she miss out on proper nutrition? If you leave it sitting there you’re free feeding!!

My preference? Twice a day unless a vet recommends otherwise. I like that my dog doesn’t have to eat so much in one sitting, and it gives him something to look forward to. I also appreciate the extra opportunity to get in some training. Twice a day works for us!

Good luck.  

**Ready to schedule a virtual training session with me? Great let’s get started!! Simply fill in the contact form with your time zone and what you need help with, and I’ll be in touch to set up an appointment.**